Season after season, I look forward to the makeup at the Anna Sui runway shows because I pull inspiration from it for my own looks for the coming months. Purple and pink eye shadow in mod shapes became my thing after seeing the fall 2018 collection, and vertical lines down the center of my eyes were my go-to look after the spring/summer 2018 one. When I arrived backstage for the spring/summer 2018 show Monday night, I thought I had a no-makeup makeup situation on my hands, and confusion started rushing through me.
I've seen no-makeup makeup backstage at New York Fashion Week time and time again. Intentionally dewy skin, flushed cheeks, a my-lips-but-better lipstick, black-brown mascara, and nearly undetectable contouring are usually involved to give models a fresh, natural-looking aesthetic. I've never seen this look at an Anna Sui show with self-made billionaire Pat McGrath as the lead makeup artist, though. Now that no-makeup makeup was on the agenda, McGrath switched up the classic look and convinced me to try out the low-key aesthetic. (I typically prefer to try out McGrath's bright, glittery looks.)
McGrath's no-makeup makeup for Anna Sui had all the standard ingredients, but she added the most 2018 element: holographic highlights. Whenever the models blinked or turned their heads, their lids and cupid's bows simultaneously reflected green, gold, and pearl — all thanks to prismatic shadows from Pat McGrath Labs' new Mothership V: Bronze Seduction Palette.
To achieve the holographic no-makeup makeup look, makeup artists started off by brushing Ultimate Taupe from the Mothership I: Subliminal Palette all over the lid as an intensifying base. Then, VR Fire Opal (a shade-shifting chartreuse) and Astral Lunar Gold (a metallic white gold) were blended on top, with most of the holographic pigments focused on the center of the lid. Astral Lunar Gold also topped the cupid's bow. The multi-dimensional green hue unexpectedly helped subtly define and highlight the natural contours of the models' eyes and face, no matter what their complexion was. Isn't that what no-makeup makeup is all about?
To complete the look, the brand-new Lip Fetish in Love Supreme (a rich rose) was tapped onto lips, and the Skin Fetish Highlighter & Balm Duo was placed on the tops of the models' cheekbones to help their skin have that undeniably dewy glow.
The Anna Sui runway show also featured an alternate look on six of the models that was more my version of no-makeup makeup. McGrath referred to the watercolor-like washes of yellow, orange, and pink that blanketed the eye area and faded into the brows, temples, and cheekbones, as the "fantasy look". Secret pigments were softly blended together with fluffy brushes typically used for highlighting. Like the natural, taupe look, VR Fire Opal covered lids, cheekbones were swept with Astral Luna Gold, and lips were coated with Love Supreme.
In the next couple of months, you could catch me incorporating both of these looks into my makeup routine. I have the natural, taupe look for low-key days and the fantasy, watercolor one for bolder moments. For those who prefer no-makeup makeup on a daily basis, all you have to do is add a holographic-shadow step to your go-to look.
Follow Devon Abelman on Twitter and Instagram.
Source: Read Full Article